convertible backpack / tote bag

by:GF bags     2019-09-24
I have just uploaded a lot of images so I hope this will help you to follow up better.
The picture describes it better than my mumbling jum. :)
This bag is a surprise for a good friend of mine.
I have started working on leather a while ago and have been thinking about what to buy/do until I think a bag is perfect;
She likes something unique.
I want to mention a few things: 1.
This is a prototype, which means I have never sewed this bag before and found a new way of doing things while I go.
You are always smarter after that, so please forgive any steps that seem unnecessary for trained eyes.
I hope you can learn from my mistakes and I point this out purposefully on the way forward. 2.
Also, the way I write this is that I follow the steps I actually take, so there may be some back and forth between projects, Ie.
There is glue dry, and then continue to work.
I organize it as much as I can, so I hope you can keep up.
Please let me know if you have any questions. 3. There\'s a 3-
Somewhere here, the pro membership giveaway for the month, but you have to read through this wonderful manual and know what you have to do to get it.
This is not a bribe.
: DI first made some sketches and notes on my notebook.
Most importantly, I also hope it is convertible.
Somehow I am obsessed with anything that is more than just a feature.
The idea of this bag is to wear three different ways
As womens tote bags bag, fashion backpack and cross body.
In the end, the cross did not work as I expected and I will discuss this later (steps 15 & 16).
Everything starts with a sketch.
I can attach a PDF to make a precise measurement of the package I made, however, I prefer anyone reading this to take what they can take and propose their own unique
Please contact me if anyone is really interested in the file and I can provide it.
Overall, I prefer to draw the pattern by hand first, but I also have a drafting background.
Of all the photos I took for this I didn\'t do \"lying flat\" or anything so called, so here\'s a boring old list: material scan gas wax leather (thin ~2mm)Sewing Thread (
For sewing machine)Leather line (
For hand stitching leather)Glue (
Working normally)Rope (
The cheapest from hardware store really)
A small amount of Carto hardware (
Actually I didn\'t buy my hardware where the link would direct you, I have a local place, but I think it might help for people who don\'t know exactly what these items are or where they can be found)-Magnetic Snap (1, small)-
Double cap rivets (12, small)-
Double cap rivets (2, large)-Buckles (2 @ ¾\")-Studs (1, medium)-Feet (4)-Double Loop (2 @ ¾\")-D-Rings (4 @ ¾\")
Universal needle for machine (
Sewn through canvas and thin leather)
\"Leather\" needle hammer (
For hand stitching leather)
\"Tongue pressing Board \"(
Got mine from the Dollar Store)X-
Acto knife and fabric scissors rivet fixing hole PunchScratch Awl (
Or another type of markup tool I. e. needle)
Oblique cutting pliers (
I had to shorten my rivets)
Splicing the SetHeat source (
Melt the wax on the canvas
Heating gun, oven, heater;
Be creative, just don\'t fire, be smart, man! )
My friend lives in Germany and I know a lot about the weather there, so it\'s not surprising that I hope this bag will have a small barrier under light rain.
When the bag falls down, she will be smart enough not to use it. . .
You can use beeswax or paraffin wax for this purpose (
Easier to buy and more affordable in craft shops).
Since I have both, I used some of the two, meh, why not? . .
So once the canvas is cut (
FYI, I added: \"There seems to be allowances around for safety)
, I pulled out the exterior on the front and back and started rubbing the wax all over the place.
It takes some time and serious elbow grease.
You want it to be all over the place so all the fun is added!
Upon completion, I fixed these parts at a safe distance from our wall heater.
You can see that the wax melts in a few seconds and the canvas becomes a bit dark once it melts.
FYI, I never let this leave the site.
I let it hang there for a while until it melts evenly.
Because it was not enough for this smart girl, I applied another layer of wax.
By the way, not sure if this is necessary.
Later, I really tested the waterproof performance and had a good time!
Oh, how funny, like a kid in a candy shop, I might have spent a minute or more rolling some small drops on the canvas. Swooosh!
Before sewing the actual bag, always consider what must be done first, which cannot be done after you go too far.
I designed this bag with two decent internal pockets that need to be sewn up before everything else is assembled.
For those of you that I have planned a very small leather detail, it would be easier to glue it down first before trying to stitch it together.
This is where the tongue-pressing board comes in handy.
Apply a little glue and fold the leather vertically at the top of the pocket.
When folded neatly in half, fix them using the represser and binder.
This allows uniform pressure on the leather and omits unnecessary traces left by the clip.
Let it work for a while.
Set the shoulder strap when the pocket is on hold as there is also glue that takes time to dry.
Here are some manual sewing, it\'s much easier to stick the leather to the rope before trying to punch and sew anything, trust me. ALERT! ! ! !
What I\'m going to do next won\'t allow me to adjust the straps any more.
I realized it was too late and the straps needed to be shorter so that the adjustable part had space.
So, made the first mistake!
Here is what I did: for the length of the strap, I just tested it on myself with a tape measure.
You can feel comfortable.
Always give yourself some extra space, so I added a few inches to its width and length to be safe.
Also, a double loop must be maintained at each end, so it requires material to keep this.
I always want to take a few steps ahead before making big cuts, and I have learned this hard way many times. . .
In addition, prepare d-
The ring that will be attached to the bottom of the bag (
Sorry, my fashion backpack is limited).
Leather strap (¾\")
Folded in half with d-
Ring inside and stick together.
Let it all dry with the pocket.
The leather is now fixed and punched with chisels and mallets.
It\'s best to do this on a plastic cutting board to protect your working surface!
Then fold the corners and eliminate some Bulgaria above by cutting some leather.
The leather line I used was not waxed, so I always put it through some before using it.
It just makes things easier/smoother.
Check out the very fast video to see how it is sewn.
The technology is not rocket science, but also called saddle stitching \".
Please take a look at the instructions.
Pocket is left-
So it\'s easier to sew with a machine later.
For this I should really use a matching thread.
I was so greedy that I replaced the gray little bobbin with my white bobbin.
So we made the pocket and put it on the magnet now because it\'s in the lining and the surface fabric will cover it.
For more clear ideas, see picture 1 of the last package.
I deliberately don\'t cut the canvas to keep it witty and don\'t set it up for tearing over time.
Next and last, feet.
I, like everything else on my pattern, marked their position and pierced it with my scratch cone.
The leather piece that will become an external pocket is first placed on the waxing canvasFinal before connecting the foot.
Also, to give some extra support, I made some small circles from the card inventory.
Simply cut small slit with x
Acto knife, hammer down your feet carefully.
So after the strap is dry, remove the clip and drill as close as possible with the chisel and hammer to the rope.
This part is also hand sewn, but you will get used to it if you have done any leather work.
The same saddle stitching technique as before. ALERT!
I realize it\'s too early for me to do next, it\'s too late!
I shouldn\'t have connected a double loop yet (More in step 14).
Also, I cut too much at the end of the leather to wrap around exactly the way I wanted it. See drawing.
Instead, I did the following: to end the end, I cut the leather and wrapped it in a double loop.
I fixed it with a little glue and hemp rope when it was dry.
In the end, it took me a long time to go through the sides and secure the leather I wrapped.
Picture 4 describes it as best as ever.
Now that the pockets, magnets and feet are connected, we can finally connect the lining (
Plain, unwaxed canvas)
Canvas with waxing.
To do this, simply align the pieces, the right side, and then start sewing.
The bag should finally be formed.
It took long enough. .
First Do the sides and bottom of the wax external canvas.
Don\'t forget to include 2d before sewing the bottom-ring straps. See picture 4.
Next, we will stitch the lining in the same way, except not to sew all the time at the bottom.
The bottom is where we will leave an opening to turn the bag out.
Leaving a gap large enough for the material to go through, I would suggest a back seam so that the seam does not tear when it goes through everything.
Guys, it\'s starting to look like a legitimate bag! !
FYI: my standard singer is only a bit of a thought in leather, like in d-
Loop belt, did I slow down and do it \"by hand\" with the balance wheel.
Oh man, that\'s it!
Now let\'s see if it really works!
Carefully turn the bag out and see what you are in.
Double check and you move on when you find everything on track.
Cut a few more corners and then close the hole in the lining by hand sewing.
To do this, I used the technique of \"sliding Needle\" or \"blind needle.
Fold your lining and straighten your bag.
Now the edge of the top must be stitched down.
I do this with a machine.
For the thin material I\'m using, my little rivets are still a bit too long.
If the time is too long and you try to fix it, the shaft will bend sideways and will not give you the safety and visuals you want.
I clipped the shaft with a few oblique pliers.
Use the same pliers to carefully bend the flat end of the shaft into a circle so that the lid can be reinstalled.
I also put a spike in the center of the leather to close the outside pocket.
See picture 4 for details.
There are two parts of a bolt like this: head or button (female)
And post later (male)
The screw went into the head.
I put the rear post through the lining and the external canvas and fixed the two together to make the lining move less.
I did the same thing with d-\'s rivets. rings next.
I used a small amount of glue to increase the strength when unscrewing the rear post into the head. The d-
Some rivets are also needed to secure the ribbon on the canvas.
Same procedure (. . .
Like every year, James! )
If you can tell me where this sentence is, I will give the first person who commented with the correct answer a 3-
Monthly pro member! ! !
Please don\'t cheat, you are better than this. ; )
Next: How to fix the shoulder strap.
These strips are also wide.
I folded them in half, including a d-
Ring, put the rivets in.
Then I use my chisel where to hole.
The position of these straps is consistent with the side of the inside pocket and from your point of view you obviously can\'t see it.
These are hand-sewn, but not from top to bottom. See picture 6.
At this point I played with the idea of adding some kind of cover and it would be neat if it just slipped between the canvas and the strap, but I decided not to do so.
So this is where I almost hit my head at the time, because I didn\'t do it according to my own rules. AGAIN.
That is thinking ahead of time.
Before passing the strap through d-, I have attached these double loops at the end of the shoulder straprings.
It was almost inappropriate and I had to work hard in order for it to fit.
Be careful! ; )
Here I found some problems that I have already described.
It\'s just full of problems, I know.
For example, when a canvas is worn as a sideways, it crashes because it is such a thin material.
I filled the bag with stuff, but even then it did.
It did the same when it was worn as a shoulder bag, and at this point I was very upset because I didn\'t foresee this happening and almost gave up.
I hate bags right away, haha.
Then I had an idea, though, derived from the Mendota belt I used for our dog.
This type of belt is a slip belt with a piece of leather that slides up and down (picture 2).
So I was able to take advantage of the idea and eventually use it for making bags.
It\'s not what I want, but it\'s better than waste.
The original plan was that the straps could be adjusted, but after I had gone so far I realized it wasn\'t working very well for this bag as I made the straps too long
But since I have sewn everything up and attached the double loop etc, I have no way back (
That\'s why your prototype).
So, I ended up not doing a buckle at all, just fixing the strap to d-ring.
The instruction is finally over.
It was a long journey, but I hope you can stay and appreciate how this bag was put together.
I am not sure I will make this bag again in the same way, maybe only leather?
This will make it more stable.
My friend loved the bag and she even wore it as a cross! !
What a good friend she is. )
Now it folds up and adds extra security, she says, no.
You can enter it.
I think we went through so much together.
This long ass guide, many of my mistakes, great jokes, and of course giveaways, so will you vote for this here and/or here when I have you here
Still don\'t bribe, haha)?
Thank you so much, now tell me how much you like or hate this bag! :D No. Seriously.
Make everyone happy!
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